Apus, mountains, Bob Dylan and all things Huaraz

Opening my eyes after a bumpy 8 hour overnight bus ride I immediately knew I would dig Huaraz.

This city, a bowl within snowy peaks, is the base for world-famous treks. Mountaineers and trekkers from all over the globe come here to prepare for life changing journeys, and after reading the somber eulogies on my hostel´s walls I discovered that some don´t make it back alive.

When not out playing in the mountains this place simply rocks! My hostel has views of Huascaran (the highest peak in the Peruvian Andes at 6768m), a cozy fireplace and hammock. The restaurants here serve thin crust pizza, lomos, freshly baked cakes and local brew. There are about 5 homemade ice-cream parlours competing for your love at .50 cents Cad a cone.

Thermal hot baths, glaciers, horseback riding, mountain biking and rockclimbing are all available to occupy your day. As is the famed Cafe Andino, home to the comfiest couches, biggest veggie breakfast and largest collection of classic books (hard to find in Fabio-esque romance novel polluted Peru). The owner is also a little obsessed with Bob Dylan.

Foolishly I thought I would be in and out of Huaraz in 3 days. Well, more than a month later I am still here.

I found the perfect trekking partner in Clay, a Californian who had completed at least 20 treks during his 5 months in South America. Together we did some short treks to test our lungs and legs. After Bolivia, I was nervous about the 3000m plus altitude. Our trek to Laguna 69 (still unsure of the name), took a beating out on me. After reaching the 4750m glacier, Clay raced down the mountain to claim my backpack which was seriously weighing me down with the altitude. I felt like my feet were nailed to the earth, barely able to put one foot in front of the other. Finally at the top I remembered why I was actually putting my body through this strain. The views of the snowy mountain peaks, closer than I had even seen them, were breathtaking. We spent a cold night drinking whisky under the stars.

A day later we were off again to complete the famed 4 day Santa Cruz trek in the Cordillera Blanca. We were among the few to go without a guide or donkey, carrying everything on our backs. Words cannot describe how much this trek meant to be. We were blessed with blue, sunny skies and incredible panoramic views of exposed mountain peaks. Unfortunately my boots were stolen in the night and I was forced to ascent the Punta Union pass (4750m) in Clay´s sandals. Awesome.

Back in Huaraz, after one day of rest we met Hunter and Page, 2 Americans eager to trek the Huayhaush. Teasingly they invited us along. Of course Clay and I were exhausted after the Santa Cruz but we curiously listened to their plans hoping to make it on our own later on. Quite spontaneously the night before their departure, with only a few hours left before the shops closed, we changed our minds. Racing around Huaraz we grabbed the necessary food, supplies and trekking poles (for me), for our 8 day adventure.

The Huayhaush in the southern Huayhaush Cordillera is a beast of a trek. Most people complete it in 10 or more days with pack mules and guides as the trails are poorly marked and safety is a huge concern. We did it in 8, on our own. I have never been challenged this physically before in my life. There were days when I nearly broke into tears, wanting desperatly to be out of the mountains. There was also one of the happiest days of my life; when we ascented the 5030m Punta Trapecio pass, a personal record for all of us. I had never felt more elated.

Our days were spent in extreme isolation, passing the odd cow or shepherd. I was reminded of how remarkable the survival story of Touching the Void is while drinking my soup, staring at Siula Grande, the mountain the boys would never forget.

Hunter was the unfortunate victim of the boot bandit this time around. However fortunately, after making enough fuss to the rangers paid to protect us, they were miraculously returned.

Our last night in the mountains rewarded us with beer sold by the Andean women. It helped to warm our frozen bodies (we were in bed every night by 7am due to the freezing temperatures).

Truly challenged, the following day I walked away from the mountains into the tiny town of Llamac feeling victorious and entirely proud of what I had accomplished.