Friday, April 24, 2009
Jugo especial
Today Gracie and I treated ourselves to the ´special´juice we´ve been noticing in the market. For 6 soles ($2) we were given 2 glasses each filled to the rim with delicious goodness. Freshly blended mango, bee pollen, banana, raw honey, apple, pineapple, freshly cut aloe vera, a molasses type liquid, 2 raw eggs and a half-pint of dark Cusco beer. Sounds and looks disgusting, but it tasted delicious with a strong malty flavour. We could feel our bodies instantly grow healthier! The juice lady added that it´s perfect for hangovers. We might be going back tomorrow after yet another big night out at Roots, the local Salsa night club. We´ve been taking lessons with the cusqueña boys and their tight white shirts. Fun.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Soy Cusqueña
This morning I reminded myself that I only have two more weeks to enjoy Cusco. The 3rd largest city is Peru feels more like a big town. Gracie and I no longer walk the streets in peace as we´re always bumping into friends, students, teachers, the same old street vendors trying to sell us massages (´special price bonita, maybe now, maybe later...´)
Cusco holds a special charm over me. The narrow, cobblestone streets are constantly packed with tourists, beggars, entreprenurs, all cramed in between 700 year old Inkan walls.
Gracie and I lucked out by being invited to live (and pay $200 for the month) in Taita House, an up and coming long-term stay hostel overlooking Cusco in the tranquil, bohemian neighbourhood of San Blass. Our days instantly became social as the hostel is inhabited by the owner, Nico and his father, Tony, a jubilant restuarant owner from Lima who takes pride in cooking delicious vegetarian dishes for us on a nightly basis. While we eat he also enjoys serenading us with romantic love songs whilst strumming Gracie´s mini guitar.
For 3 weeks now Gracie and I have introduced delicious routines to our lives. In the morning we head to Spanish school in hope of cramming more words into our tired brains. After it´s off to the market for freshly blended juice and a chat with our favourite vendor. Back home for a siesta, homework and a stretch in the sun before meeting up with our favourite guys (all from Peru and Taita hostel, good friends who´ve invited us into their comfy world). We prefer to eat lunch at Lila´s in the San Blass market. $1 for a vegetarian feast of homemade soup, a whopping portion of curried beans, lentils, rice, fried banana (it changes every day), homemade yoghurt and a chocolate banana cake for desert. Yum. Her tiny stand is always packed, so we usually end up dining on the stairs outside, next to the women selling coca leaves and mending dresses.
In the afternoon we head to Aldea Yanapay for four hours of chaos! Aldea was an amazingly exhausting, albeit enjoyable experience. I had to prepare lessons daily for my group of 5-6 year olds. I usually had 8 in my art class (on a good day), and together we made animal masks, musical instruments (a great day!), painted easter eggs, and generally try to prevent the killing of eachother! The language barrier was a real thrill, as were the runny noses, face punches, foot stomping, paint brush throwing, insult spewing moments. At the end of the day the warm hugs, and cheek kisses made it entirely worth it. These kids come from poor homes with little education, and yet they were all smiles, all love (on a good day...). My favourite moment was this past friday. I had spent all week teaching my group of 10 year olds about the different continents. Each child had to remember one continent, 3 countries and 2 interesting facts. Easy right? Nothing was sinking into their brains. They´d shout that Thailand was in Antarctica and that penguins live in Africa. Finally on Friday, the day of the big performance, costumes and audience in tow, they remembered! They all bloody remembered! I was so proud! That was a good day.
Now that I am Aldea-free, I have an entire week to continue with my spanish studies while soaking up all that I can of Cusco. Over Easter we hosted Semana Santa. A week long of fesitivities including the procession of the virgen. This city tripled in size! And the sweets! What a celebration! People here love their desserts, well, actually, they seem to really love food period.
Good thing Gracie and I feel the same way.
Our strict rule is to try something new every day. We´ve done well so far.
Here´s a sample...
1. Rocoto Relleno - spicy peppers stuffed with carrots and deepfried in a thick batter. Sold on the streets for .75 and served with 2 mini baked potatoes.
2. Baked plantains and boiled quail eggs bought from wheelbarrows in the street.
3. Chicha, a local wine made from maize. It´s quite sour and not my favourite, but the locals love it and say it´s good for you!
4. Chicha morada, a juice made from purple corn, boiled with pineapple juice and sugar. We also sampled a pudding made from chica morada with a molases texture. Really thick and creamy and rich purple in colour.
5. Piccarones. Sweet potato batter deep fried into thin donuts and served drizzled with honey. My favourite! You can get 4 whole ones for $1!
6. Picante salsa with fresh cilantro, parsely, capsicums. Served with EVERYTHING! Super exciting flavours that burn your mouth and leave you wanting more.
7. Potatoes, native to Peru! Over 200 species with an array of colours and flavours. I have never eaten a sweeter potatoe until Cusco. It´s popular to eat them on their own or with salsa.
8. Maca. A root vegetable similar to turnip. It´s usually fried and can be bought from street vendors on cold nights.
9. Fruit, Vegetables and Honey! ALL organic, all fresh, all huge and beautiful in portion, all cheap, all from the Amazon! Avacadoes for 10 cents, honey for .50. I have never eaten so well. Vegetarian mostly too! The meat here is a bit dodgy as it´s usually kept at room temperature in the markets for hours on end. However, we have sort of promised ourselves that we´ll try the national fave Cuy (guinea pig). Served whole; head, arms, nails and all. I´ll let you know how that goes..
10. 100% Andean Chocolate. We tried chocolate balls made with Pisco, the local brandy-esque liquor made from Peruvian grapes. It´s normally served as a Pisco Sour with a mixture of lime juice and egg whites. Frothy. The perfect mix of sweet and sour. Goood!!!!
11. Ceviche. Fresh fish marinated in lime juice and served ´raw´. It´s been nearly a month since I´ve last had this dish, and I´m really looking forward to eating more on the northern coast.
As you can guess, I´m enthusiastic about Peru. The other night we were invited to the opening of Kusikay. An entirely Peruvian production of dance, circus acts, song, slapstick comedy. The founder, also playing the clown, became emotional at the end of the night, pouring his heart out for his love of Peru. The most poignant moment for me, was in the middle of the show when two groups of dancers came on stage carrying their different idols. On the left the serious, mournful with their virgen in white. On the right, the colourful, playful natives carrying their simple Inkan mummy. The mixture of these rich cultures has created a bounty of soulful music, cuisine, textiles, art and a people with warm smiles and open arms. I love Peru. Talk about love at first sight. Even a severe bought of stomach illness at the start of my time here wasn´t enough to turn me away!
Next week MachuPiccu and more adventures in the Sacred Valley. There´s a lot of magic to be had!
Until then..
Emily
Cusco holds a special charm over me. The narrow, cobblestone streets are constantly packed with tourists, beggars, entreprenurs, all cramed in between 700 year old Inkan walls.
Gracie and I lucked out by being invited to live (and pay $200 for the month) in Taita House, an up and coming long-term stay hostel overlooking Cusco in the tranquil, bohemian neighbourhood of San Blass. Our days instantly became social as the hostel is inhabited by the owner, Nico and his father, Tony, a jubilant restuarant owner from Lima who takes pride in cooking delicious vegetarian dishes for us on a nightly basis. While we eat he also enjoys serenading us with romantic love songs whilst strumming Gracie´s mini guitar.
For 3 weeks now Gracie and I have introduced delicious routines to our lives. In the morning we head to Spanish school in hope of cramming more words into our tired brains. After it´s off to the market for freshly blended juice and a chat with our favourite vendor. Back home for a siesta, homework and a stretch in the sun before meeting up with our favourite guys (all from Peru and Taita hostel, good friends who´ve invited us into their comfy world). We prefer to eat lunch at Lila´s in the San Blass market. $1 for a vegetarian feast of homemade soup, a whopping portion of curried beans, lentils, rice, fried banana (it changes every day), homemade yoghurt and a chocolate banana cake for desert. Yum. Her tiny stand is always packed, so we usually end up dining on the stairs outside, next to the women selling coca leaves and mending dresses.
In the afternoon we head to Aldea Yanapay for four hours of chaos! Aldea was an amazingly exhausting, albeit enjoyable experience. I had to prepare lessons daily for my group of 5-6 year olds. I usually had 8 in my art class (on a good day), and together we made animal masks, musical instruments (a great day!), painted easter eggs, and generally try to prevent the killing of eachother! The language barrier was a real thrill, as were the runny noses, face punches, foot stomping, paint brush throwing, insult spewing moments. At the end of the day the warm hugs, and cheek kisses made it entirely worth it. These kids come from poor homes with little education, and yet they were all smiles, all love (on a good day...). My favourite moment was this past friday. I had spent all week teaching my group of 10 year olds about the different continents. Each child had to remember one continent, 3 countries and 2 interesting facts. Easy right? Nothing was sinking into their brains. They´d shout that Thailand was in Antarctica and that penguins live in Africa. Finally on Friday, the day of the big performance, costumes and audience in tow, they remembered! They all bloody remembered! I was so proud! That was a good day.
Now that I am Aldea-free, I have an entire week to continue with my spanish studies while soaking up all that I can of Cusco. Over Easter we hosted Semana Santa. A week long of fesitivities including the procession of the virgen. This city tripled in size! And the sweets! What a celebration! People here love their desserts, well, actually, they seem to really love food period.
Good thing Gracie and I feel the same way.
Our strict rule is to try something new every day. We´ve done well so far.
Here´s a sample...
1. Rocoto Relleno - spicy peppers stuffed with carrots and deepfried in a thick batter. Sold on the streets for .75 and served with 2 mini baked potatoes.
2. Baked plantains and boiled quail eggs bought from wheelbarrows in the street.
3. Chicha, a local wine made from maize. It´s quite sour and not my favourite, but the locals love it and say it´s good for you!
4. Chicha morada, a juice made from purple corn, boiled with pineapple juice and sugar. We also sampled a pudding made from chica morada with a molases texture. Really thick and creamy and rich purple in colour.
5. Piccarones. Sweet potato batter deep fried into thin donuts and served drizzled with honey. My favourite! You can get 4 whole ones for $1!
6. Picante salsa with fresh cilantro, parsely, capsicums. Served with EVERYTHING! Super exciting flavours that burn your mouth and leave you wanting more.
7. Potatoes, native to Peru! Over 200 species with an array of colours and flavours. I have never eaten a sweeter potatoe until Cusco. It´s popular to eat them on their own or with salsa.
8. Maca. A root vegetable similar to turnip. It´s usually fried and can be bought from street vendors on cold nights.
9. Fruit, Vegetables and Honey! ALL organic, all fresh, all huge and beautiful in portion, all cheap, all from the Amazon! Avacadoes for 10 cents, honey for .50. I have never eaten so well. Vegetarian mostly too! The meat here is a bit dodgy as it´s usually kept at room temperature in the markets for hours on end. However, we have sort of promised ourselves that we´ll try the national fave Cuy (guinea pig). Served whole; head, arms, nails and all. I´ll let you know how that goes..
10. 100% Andean Chocolate. We tried chocolate balls made with Pisco, the local brandy-esque liquor made from Peruvian grapes. It´s normally served as a Pisco Sour with a mixture of lime juice and egg whites. Frothy. The perfect mix of sweet and sour. Goood!!!!
11. Ceviche. Fresh fish marinated in lime juice and served ´raw´. It´s been nearly a month since I´ve last had this dish, and I´m really looking forward to eating more on the northern coast.
As you can guess, I´m enthusiastic about Peru. The other night we were invited to the opening of Kusikay. An entirely Peruvian production of dance, circus acts, song, slapstick comedy. The founder, also playing the clown, became emotional at the end of the night, pouring his heart out for his love of Peru. The most poignant moment for me, was in the middle of the show when two groups of dancers came on stage carrying their different idols. On the left the serious, mournful with their virgen in white. On the right, the colourful, playful natives carrying their simple Inkan mummy. The mixture of these rich cultures has created a bounty of soulful music, cuisine, textiles, art and a people with warm smiles and open arms. I love Peru. Talk about love at first sight. Even a severe bought of stomach illness at the start of my time here wasn´t enough to turn me away!
Next week MachuPiccu and more adventures in the Sacred Valley. There´s a lot of magic to be had!
Until then..
Emily
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