Always mistakingly calling Lima La Paz, I was worried when I got on the bus in Cusco. 21 hours later I was in Lima! An overly friendly taxi driver, Andre, took me on a drive-by tour of the plaza and nearby colonial architecture. He was sweet enough to remind me to hide my purse between my legs as theives like to target tourists in idle cars.
I only had an afternoon to kill before I borded another bus. I spent lunch in an elegant cafe eating my first dish of ceviche in Peru followed by the famous lomo saltado. This dish packs a punch of tender beef strips, sauteed onions, veggies and a salty teriyaki-style sauce all on a bed of french fries. This was the beginning of a new food love affair. And all for under $5 Cad!
In the vast plaza I randomly started chatting with a guy who happened to know friends from Cusco. We wasted the rest of the afternoon in a pub overlooking the hills surrounding Lima while downing local brew. The beer helped send me to sleep on yet another overnight bus ride.
This time my destination would send me to the mountains! An expected 3 day stop in Huaraz has turned into a month-long (and counting...I´m still here) adventure.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Barely Bolivia
In Canada I had a rough itinerary for this South American odyssey of mine. I knew that I wanted to see the Andes. I also knew that I needed to go to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia if only to take one of those wacky photos of a mini-me floating on top of a whisky bottle.
Sadly I didn´t make it to the world´s largest salt lake. .For various reasons.
In the north of Argentina I saw several small salt lakes, with no camera to be had. No bother. I was heading to Bolivia anyway.
Well...Gracie and I eventually broke away from Cusco for a holiday around Lake Titicaca. This sacred body of water is one of the highest lakes in the world at 3812 m. It is home to delicious trucha (trout) and man-made floating islands. Gracie and I spent a quiet night with a local family on isla Amantani eating trucha and french fries for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We continued our trip through the Bolivian border into famed hippy hangout Copacabana. Our intentions were to visit Isla del Sol (birthplace of the Inkan empire), but both of us ended up being hit hard by the high elevation. We spent most of our time lounging in the sun or sleeping in our inexpensive hotel beds.
Gracie was set to return to Cusco in anticipation of her parents´ arrival. My plan was to continue south to culturally rich La Paz and finally the Salar. As most of you know by now, I am an impulsive human being. This led to a quick return to Cusco. I missed my friends, missed the comfort of being settled somewhere and really didn´t think I had enough time to properly enjoy Bolivia.
Och well...To the future! Gives me reason to come back and do some treks through the challenging land. I have since met travellers who really loved Bolivia, surviving bike rides down the infamous ´death road´and reaching their highest elevations next to glacial lakes. I will return. Hopefully when I do the country will have settled politically.
It is hard to avoid talk of the conflict in Bolivia. Peru has just kicked out the Bolivian ambassador and there have been fatal protests in the Lake Titicaca region.
Sadly I didn´t make it to the world´s largest salt lake. .For various reasons.
In the north of Argentina I saw several small salt lakes, with no camera to be had. No bother. I was heading to Bolivia anyway.
Well...Gracie and I eventually broke away from Cusco for a holiday around Lake Titicaca. This sacred body of water is one of the highest lakes in the world at 3812 m. It is home to delicious trucha (trout) and man-made floating islands. Gracie and I spent a quiet night with a local family on isla Amantani eating trucha and french fries for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We continued our trip through the Bolivian border into famed hippy hangout Copacabana. Our intentions were to visit Isla del Sol (birthplace of the Inkan empire), but both of us ended up being hit hard by the high elevation. We spent most of our time lounging in the sun or sleeping in our inexpensive hotel beds.
Gracie was set to return to Cusco in anticipation of her parents´ arrival. My plan was to continue south to culturally rich La Paz and finally the Salar. As most of you know by now, I am an impulsive human being. This led to a quick return to Cusco. I missed my friends, missed the comfort of being settled somewhere and really didn´t think I had enough time to properly enjoy Bolivia.
Och well...To the future! Gives me reason to come back and do some treks through the challenging land. I have since met travellers who really loved Bolivia, surviving bike rides down the infamous ´death road´and reaching their highest elevations next to glacial lakes. I will return. Hopefully when I do the country will have settled politically.
It is hard to avoid talk of the conflict in Bolivia. Peru has just kicked out the Bolivian ambassador and there have been fatal protests in the Lake Titicaca region.
Adios Cusco
Since leaving Cusco I have met travellers who even afer only 3 days in the city felt that they had overstayed their welcome. True Cusco´s streets are conjested with tourists and women desperately trying to sell massages, but after nearly 7 weeks I was sad to go.
I was however fortunate enough to befriend folk with a lust for Cusco´s rich history and a need for eager students to teach it to. My dwindling time was spent conversing around Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), final battleground between the Inka and relentless Conquistador, and Coricancha, otherwise known as the Temple of the Sun.
On my last day the Plaza de Armas erupted in celebration. Another typical Cusqueña day full of parades, traditional dance, and festivity. Unsure of what we were witnessing but glad that we were, Gracie and I spent hours simply enjoying ourselves. I left Cusco on the night bus for Lima, grateful for the memories.
I was however fortunate enough to befriend folk with a lust for Cusco´s rich history and a need for eager students to teach it to. My dwindling time was spent conversing around Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), final battleground between the Inka and relentless Conquistador, and Coricancha, otherwise known as the Temple of the Sun.
On my last day the Plaza de Armas erupted in celebration. Another typical Cusqueña day full of parades, traditional dance, and festivity. Unsure of what we were witnessing but glad that we were, Gracie and I spent hours simply enjoying ourselves. I left Cusco on the night bus for Lima, grateful for the memories.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Jungle Queen
Today, Saturday, has become the new day of rest. I could barely manage a walk to the market due to extreme exhaustion. Glad I went though. Gracie introduced me to an undiscovered aisle in San Pedro. An aisle where women make traditional health shakes out of frogs skinned alive and octopus. Yum!
Now I´m home, preparing for my very first eveningALONE in 4 months of travel!!! What am I to do without friends for one night!?! I´ve bought a bottle of Chilean red, and a flick for $1 from the market (bootlegged of course). I´ve got olives and a warm bed to look forward to too.
I´m pooped after 5 days in the jungle with a retired Shaman and fiery Guatamalen-Miami bred wild woman.
Booking the trek was easy. I knew I didn´t want to go commercial for Machu Picchu. I picked an alternative, locally run company owned by Pepe who also runs El Arbol, the veggie restaurant next to our spanish school. Upon meeting Pepe I knew I wasn´t going to get the conventional Machu Picchu experience. To be honest, I was a bit worried when I showed up day 1 to discover that it was just me and Majsha dressed in her finest fur jacket and Prada backpack. She mentioned Pepe being a Shaman and was eager to get into the San Pedro hallucenogenic state she had had previously in the jungles of Peru. Immedietaly I thought I was screwed, having booked the wrong tour. Turns out Pepe is retired from all of that and I had an entirely drug-free jungle experience, apart from chewing Coca leaves for altitude sickness, common and accepted practice in Peru.
Day 2 after a 6 hour horrifingly bumpy bus ride through the Sacred Valley and a quick snooze in the tiny town of Santa Maria I awoke to the most amazing jungle scenery. The climate was hot, humid and a nice change from the chilly days of Cusco and her high altitude. We departed for our trek and spent 8 hours exploring the jungle and the tiny communities within. I enjoyed Pepe´s tour for the financial support it gives to local families. We enjoyed homemade coffee, cheese empanadas, and cocoa seeds straight from the trees. A first for me, the flesh was deliciously similar to custard apple and the cocoa seeds had a thick texture. Muy bien! After several breaks along the trek for yoga, massages (Pepe is a trained reflexologist), and meditation sessions we made it to the thermal baths of Santa Teresa. This eden was a welcome break for our sore bodies. The ´resort´ is only a year old but the hot natural waters have been pouring from the mountains for thousands of years. Beautiful scenery surrounded me as I floated in the pool. So many shades of green!
After a lazy morning, day 3 took us away from roads as we treked the train tracks in the direction of Machu Picchu. Above us we saw the ancient trails of the Inkas, unrecognized by the Spaniards whom thanks to the density of the jungle, never discovered Machu Picchu. In Cusco my friend Tony taught Gracie and I all about the conquistadors path of destruction. They chopped off the heads of the Condor and Puma carvings, sacred animals of the Inkas, leaving only the snakes for the Christian connection with the devil. Gracie and I got to run our fingers along the rock carvings and were shown how they´re highlighted with the sun´s various positions.
Not a lot is known about the Inkan society, and Machu Picchu remains a mystery. Visiting the citadel was a childhood dream of mine, and I found myself enjoying being lost in the streets, exploring man made caves and soaking up sun on the terraces away from the tourists. The location of Machu Picchu is remarkable. Now only over-priced trains can enter the nearest town of Aguas Calientes as there are no roads. I´m glad I treked as it made the experience of reaching Machu Picchu all the more worth while. And the fruit! Oh my...Our trek was made longer by the constant breaks to pick fresh mangos, avacados, and guavas from the trees. The secret waterfalls were also worth the hunt through snake infested marsh.
One of the highlights for me was our last day. We had planned on leaving at 6 in the morning, but upon returning to the hot springs after a 12 hour trek 6 turned into 11 and then finally at 1 we departed for the town center to catch our bus to Cusco. This being Peru, there are holidays every other day. No one wanted to drive us. One 18 year old taxi driver (with his dad in the back seat keeping watch) juggled with the idea, knowing full well that he doesn´t get enough customers, but wanting to participate in the town´s parade that day. He had already put balloons on his car... And so we waited. Refusing to succomb to boredom we opened a bottle of wine and prepared a fresh lunch of avacado and cucumber. We played with the local kids and tried our hands at chess. Finally a local offered to take us in his car on the 6 hour journey. And take us he did...100 kms an hour on winding roads above the clouds with the peaks of the Alps at eye level, listening to regaton (duh de dah duh de dah duh) the entire way as our bodies crashed into eachother (no seat belts). Finally getting us safe and sound to Cusco at 10pm (I was expected to arrive at 1).
Being with Pepe and Majsha was the real trip. Pepe speaks broken English and Majsha had to translate what I couldn´t understand. Most of the time I listened to their rapid fire Spanish conversations about ex-spouses and their kids, nodding my head in agreement. I had to constantly request that they speak slower. The learning continues...
As does the night. Time for my local veggie sandwhich and a glass of vino.
Enjoy these first days of spring. Winter is approaching Peru. Bolivia will be even colder.
I leave Wednesday, after Gracie´s birthday celebrations. We´re thinking of splurging on a 15 soles meal ($5) rather than our usual 5 soles.
Ciao mis amigos!
xo
em
Now I´m home, preparing for my very first eveningALONE in 4 months of travel!!! What am I to do without friends for one night!?! I´ve bought a bottle of Chilean red, and a flick for $1 from the market (bootlegged of course). I´ve got olives and a warm bed to look forward to too.
I´m pooped after 5 days in the jungle with a retired Shaman and fiery Guatamalen-Miami bred wild woman.
Booking the trek was easy. I knew I didn´t want to go commercial for Machu Picchu. I picked an alternative, locally run company owned by Pepe who also runs El Arbol, the veggie restaurant next to our spanish school. Upon meeting Pepe I knew I wasn´t going to get the conventional Machu Picchu experience. To be honest, I was a bit worried when I showed up day 1 to discover that it was just me and Majsha dressed in her finest fur jacket and Prada backpack. She mentioned Pepe being a Shaman and was eager to get into the San Pedro hallucenogenic state she had had previously in the jungles of Peru. Immedietaly I thought I was screwed, having booked the wrong tour. Turns out Pepe is retired from all of that and I had an entirely drug-free jungle experience, apart from chewing Coca leaves for altitude sickness, common and accepted practice in Peru.
Day 2 after a 6 hour horrifingly bumpy bus ride through the Sacred Valley and a quick snooze in the tiny town of Santa Maria I awoke to the most amazing jungle scenery. The climate was hot, humid and a nice change from the chilly days of Cusco and her high altitude. We departed for our trek and spent 8 hours exploring the jungle and the tiny communities within. I enjoyed Pepe´s tour for the financial support it gives to local families. We enjoyed homemade coffee, cheese empanadas, and cocoa seeds straight from the trees. A first for me, the flesh was deliciously similar to custard apple and the cocoa seeds had a thick texture. Muy bien! After several breaks along the trek for yoga, massages (Pepe is a trained reflexologist), and meditation sessions we made it to the thermal baths of Santa Teresa. This eden was a welcome break for our sore bodies. The ´resort´ is only a year old but the hot natural waters have been pouring from the mountains for thousands of years. Beautiful scenery surrounded me as I floated in the pool. So many shades of green!
After a lazy morning, day 3 took us away from roads as we treked the train tracks in the direction of Machu Picchu. Above us we saw the ancient trails of the Inkas, unrecognized by the Spaniards whom thanks to the density of the jungle, never discovered Machu Picchu. In Cusco my friend Tony taught Gracie and I all about the conquistadors path of destruction. They chopped off the heads of the Condor and Puma carvings, sacred animals of the Inkas, leaving only the snakes for the Christian connection with the devil. Gracie and I got to run our fingers along the rock carvings and were shown how they´re highlighted with the sun´s various positions.
Not a lot is known about the Inkan society, and Machu Picchu remains a mystery. Visiting the citadel was a childhood dream of mine, and I found myself enjoying being lost in the streets, exploring man made caves and soaking up sun on the terraces away from the tourists. The location of Machu Picchu is remarkable. Now only over-priced trains can enter the nearest town of Aguas Calientes as there are no roads. I´m glad I treked as it made the experience of reaching Machu Picchu all the more worth while. And the fruit! Oh my...Our trek was made longer by the constant breaks to pick fresh mangos, avacados, and guavas from the trees. The secret waterfalls were also worth the hunt through snake infested marsh.
One of the highlights for me was our last day. We had planned on leaving at 6 in the morning, but upon returning to the hot springs after a 12 hour trek 6 turned into 11 and then finally at 1 we departed for the town center to catch our bus to Cusco. This being Peru, there are holidays every other day. No one wanted to drive us. One 18 year old taxi driver (with his dad in the back seat keeping watch) juggled with the idea, knowing full well that he doesn´t get enough customers, but wanting to participate in the town´s parade that day. He had already put balloons on his car... And so we waited. Refusing to succomb to boredom we opened a bottle of wine and prepared a fresh lunch of avacado and cucumber. We played with the local kids and tried our hands at chess. Finally a local offered to take us in his car on the 6 hour journey. And take us he did...100 kms an hour on winding roads above the clouds with the peaks of the Alps at eye level, listening to regaton (duh de dah duh de dah duh) the entire way as our bodies crashed into eachother (no seat belts). Finally getting us safe and sound to Cusco at 10pm (I was expected to arrive at 1).
Being with Pepe and Majsha was the real trip. Pepe speaks broken English and Majsha had to translate what I couldn´t understand. Most of the time I listened to their rapid fire Spanish conversations about ex-spouses and their kids, nodding my head in agreement. I had to constantly request that they speak slower. The learning continues...
As does the night. Time for my local veggie sandwhich and a glass of vino.
Enjoy these first days of spring. Winter is approaching Peru. Bolivia will be even colder.
I leave Wednesday, after Gracie´s birthday celebrations. We´re thinking of splurging on a 15 soles meal ($5) rather than our usual 5 soles.
Ciao mis amigos!
xo
em
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