In Canada I had a rough itinerary for this South American odyssey of mine. I knew that I wanted to see the Andes. I also knew that I needed to go to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia if only to take one of those wacky photos of a mini-me floating on top of a whisky bottle.
Sadly I didn´t make it to the world´s largest salt lake. .For various reasons.
In the north of Argentina I saw several small salt lakes, with no camera to be had. No bother. I was heading to Bolivia anyway.
Well...Gracie and I eventually broke away from Cusco for a holiday around Lake Titicaca. This sacred body of water is one of the highest lakes in the world at 3812 m. It is home to delicious trucha (trout) and man-made floating islands. Gracie and I spent a quiet night with a local family on isla Amantani eating trucha and french fries for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We continued our trip through the Bolivian border into famed hippy hangout Copacabana. Our intentions were to visit Isla del Sol (birthplace of the Inkan empire), but both of us ended up being hit hard by the high elevation. We spent most of our time lounging in the sun or sleeping in our inexpensive hotel beds.
Gracie was set to return to Cusco in anticipation of her parents´ arrival. My plan was to continue south to culturally rich La Paz and finally the Salar. As most of you know by now, I am an impulsive human being. This led to a quick return to Cusco. I missed my friends, missed the comfort of being settled somewhere and really didn´t think I had enough time to properly enjoy Bolivia.
Och well...To the future! Gives me reason to come back and do some treks through the challenging land. I have since met travellers who really loved Bolivia, surviving bike rides down the infamous ´death road´and reaching their highest elevations next to glacial lakes. I will return. Hopefully when I do the country will have settled politically.
It is hard to avoid talk of the conflict in Bolivia. Peru has just kicked out the Bolivian ambassador and there have been fatal protests in the Lake Titicaca region.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Adios Cusco
Since leaving Cusco I have met travellers who even afer only 3 days in the city felt that they had overstayed their welcome. True Cusco´s streets are conjested with tourists and women desperately trying to sell massages, but after nearly 7 weeks I was sad to go.
I was however fortunate enough to befriend folk with a lust for Cusco´s rich history and a need for eager students to teach it to. My dwindling time was spent conversing around Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), final battleground between the Inka and relentless Conquistador, and Coricancha, otherwise known as the Temple of the Sun.
On my last day the Plaza de Armas erupted in celebration. Another typical Cusqueña day full of parades, traditional dance, and festivity. Unsure of what we were witnessing but glad that we were, Gracie and I spent hours simply enjoying ourselves. I left Cusco on the night bus for Lima, grateful for the memories.
I was however fortunate enough to befriend folk with a lust for Cusco´s rich history and a need for eager students to teach it to. My dwindling time was spent conversing around Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), final battleground between the Inka and relentless Conquistador, and Coricancha, otherwise known as the Temple of the Sun.
On my last day the Plaza de Armas erupted in celebration. Another typical Cusqueña day full of parades, traditional dance, and festivity. Unsure of what we were witnessing but glad that we were, Gracie and I spent hours simply enjoying ourselves. I left Cusco on the night bus for Lima, grateful for the memories.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Jungle Queen
Today, Saturday, has become the new day of rest. I could barely manage a walk to the market due to extreme exhaustion. Glad I went though. Gracie introduced me to an undiscovered aisle in San Pedro. An aisle where women make traditional health shakes out of frogs skinned alive and octopus. Yum!
Now I´m home, preparing for my very first eveningALONE in 4 months of travel!!! What am I to do without friends for one night!?! I´ve bought a bottle of Chilean red, and a flick for $1 from the market (bootlegged of course). I´ve got olives and a warm bed to look forward to too.
I´m pooped after 5 days in the jungle with a retired Shaman and fiery Guatamalen-Miami bred wild woman.
Booking the trek was easy. I knew I didn´t want to go commercial for Machu Picchu. I picked an alternative, locally run company owned by Pepe who also runs El Arbol, the veggie restaurant next to our spanish school. Upon meeting Pepe I knew I wasn´t going to get the conventional Machu Picchu experience. To be honest, I was a bit worried when I showed up day 1 to discover that it was just me and Majsha dressed in her finest fur jacket and Prada backpack. She mentioned Pepe being a Shaman and was eager to get into the San Pedro hallucenogenic state she had had previously in the jungles of Peru. Immedietaly I thought I was screwed, having booked the wrong tour. Turns out Pepe is retired from all of that and I had an entirely drug-free jungle experience, apart from chewing Coca leaves for altitude sickness, common and accepted practice in Peru.
Day 2 after a 6 hour horrifingly bumpy bus ride through the Sacred Valley and a quick snooze in the tiny town of Santa Maria I awoke to the most amazing jungle scenery. The climate was hot, humid and a nice change from the chilly days of Cusco and her high altitude. We departed for our trek and spent 8 hours exploring the jungle and the tiny communities within. I enjoyed Pepe´s tour for the financial support it gives to local families. We enjoyed homemade coffee, cheese empanadas, and cocoa seeds straight from the trees. A first for me, the flesh was deliciously similar to custard apple and the cocoa seeds had a thick texture. Muy bien! After several breaks along the trek for yoga, massages (Pepe is a trained reflexologist), and meditation sessions we made it to the thermal baths of Santa Teresa. This eden was a welcome break for our sore bodies. The ´resort´ is only a year old but the hot natural waters have been pouring from the mountains for thousands of years. Beautiful scenery surrounded me as I floated in the pool. So many shades of green!
After a lazy morning, day 3 took us away from roads as we treked the train tracks in the direction of Machu Picchu. Above us we saw the ancient trails of the Inkas, unrecognized by the Spaniards whom thanks to the density of the jungle, never discovered Machu Picchu. In Cusco my friend Tony taught Gracie and I all about the conquistadors path of destruction. They chopped off the heads of the Condor and Puma carvings, sacred animals of the Inkas, leaving only the snakes for the Christian connection with the devil. Gracie and I got to run our fingers along the rock carvings and were shown how they´re highlighted with the sun´s various positions.
Not a lot is known about the Inkan society, and Machu Picchu remains a mystery. Visiting the citadel was a childhood dream of mine, and I found myself enjoying being lost in the streets, exploring man made caves and soaking up sun on the terraces away from the tourists. The location of Machu Picchu is remarkable. Now only over-priced trains can enter the nearest town of Aguas Calientes as there are no roads. I´m glad I treked as it made the experience of reaching Machu Picchu all the more worth while. And the fruit! Oh my...Our trek was made longer by the constant breaks to pick fresh mangos, avacados, and guavas from the trees. The secret waterfalls were also worth the hunt through snake infested marsh.
One of the highlights for me was our last day. We had planned on leaving at 6 in the morning, but upon returning to the hot springs after a 12 hour trek 6 turned into 11 and then finally at 1 we departed for the town center to catch our bus to Cusco. This being Peru, there are holidays every other day. No one wanted to drive us. One 18 year old taxi driver (with his dad in the back seat keeping watch) juggled with the idea, knowing full well that he doesn´t get enough customers, but wanting to participate in the town´s parade that day. He had already put balloons on his car... And so we waited. Refusing to succomb to boredom we opened a bottle of wine and prepared a fresh lunch of avacado and cucumber. We played with the local kids and tried our hands at chess. Finally a local offered to take us in his car on the 6 hour journey. And take us he did...100 kms an hour on winding roads above the clouds with the peaks of the Alps at eye level, listening to regaton (duh de dah duh de dah duh) the entire way as our bodies crashed into eachother (no seat belts). Finally getting us safe and sound to Cusco at 10pm (I was expected to arrive at 1).
Being with Pepe and Majsha was the real trip. Pepe speaks broken English and Majsha had to translate what I couldn´t understand. Most of the time I listened to their rapid fire Spanish conversations about ex-spouses and their kids, nodding my head in agreement. I had to constantly request that they speak slower. The learning continues...
As does the night. Time for my local veggie sandwhich and a glass of vino.
Enjoy these first days of spring. Winter is approaching Peru. Bolivia will be even colder.
I leave Wednesday, after Gracie´s birthday celebrations. We´re thinking of splurging on a 15 soles meal ($5) rather than our usual 5 soles.
Ciao mis amigos!
xo
em
Now I´m home, preparing for my very first eveningALONE in 4 months of travel!!! What am I to do without friends for one night!?! I´ve bought a bottle of Chilean red, and a flick for $1 from the market (bootlegged of course). I´ve got olives and a warm bed to look forward to too.
I´m pooped after 5 days in the jungle with a retired Shaman and fiery Guatamalen-Miami bred wild woman.
Booking the trek was easy. I knew I didn´t want to go commercial for Machu Picchu. I picked an alternative, locally run company owned by Pepe who also runs El Arbol, the veggie restaurant next to our spanish school. Upon meeting Pepe I knew I wasn´t going to get the conventional Machu Picchu experience. To be honest, I was a bit worried when I showed up day 1 to discover that it was just me and Majsha dressed in her finest fur jacket and Prada backpack. She mentioned Pepe being a Shaman and was eager to get into the San Pedro hallucenogenic state she had had previously in the jungles of Peru. Immedietaly I thought I was screwed, having booked the wrong tour. Turns out Pepe is retired from all of that and I had an entirely drug-free jungle experience, apart from chewing Coca leaves for altitude sickness, common and accepted practice in Peru.
Day 2 after a 6 hour horrifingly bumpy bus ride through the Sacred Valley and a quick snooze in the tiny town of Santa Maria I awoke to the most amazing jungle scenery. The climate was hot, humid and a nice change from the chilly days of Cusco and her high altitude. We departed for our trek and spent 8 hours exploring the jungle and the tiny communities within. I enjoyed Pepe´s tour for the financial support it gives to local families. We enjoyed homemade coffee, cheese empanadas, and cocoa seeds straight from the trees. A first for me, the flesh was deliciously similar to custard apple and the cocoa seeds had a thick texture. Muy bien! After several breaks along the trek for yoga, massages (Pepe is a trained reflexologist), and meditation sessions we made it to the thermal baths of Santa Teresa. This eden was a welcome break for our sore bodies. The ´resort´ is only a year old but the hot natural waters have been pouring from the mountains for thousands of years. Beautiful scenery surrounded me as I floated in the pool. So many shades of green!
After a lazy morning, day 3 took us away from roads as we treked the train tracks in the direction of Machu Picchu. Above us we saw the ancient trails of the Inkas, unrecognized by the Spaniards whom thanks to the density of the jungle, never discovered Machu Picchu. In Cusco my friend Tony taught Gracie and I all about the conquistadors path of destruction. They chopped off the heads of the Condor and Puma carvings, sacred animals of the Inkas, leaving only the snakes for the Christian connection with the devil. Gracie and I got to run our fingers along the rock carvings and were shown how they´re highlighted with the sun´s various positions.
Not a lot is known about the Inkan society, and Machu Picchu remains a mystery. Visiting the citadel was a childhood dream of mine, and I found myself enjoying being lost in the streets, exploring man made caves and soaking up sun on the terraces away from the tourists. The location of Machu Picchu is remarkable. Now only over-priced trains can enter the nearest town of Aguas Calientes as there are no roads. I´m glad I treked as it made the experience of reaching Machu Picchu all the more worth while. And the fruit! Oh my...Our trek was made longer by the constant breaks to pick fresh mangos, avacados, and guavas from the trees. The secret waterfalls were also worth the hunt through snake infested marsh.
One of the highlights for me was our last day. We had planned on leaving at 6 in the morning, but upon returning to the hot springs after a 12 hour trek 6 turned into 11 and then finally at 1 we departed for the town center to catch our bus to Cusco. This being Peru, there are holidays every other day. No one wanted to drive us. One 18 year old taxi driver (with his dad in the back seat keeping watch) juggled with the idea, knowing full well that he doesn´t get enough customers, but wanting to participate in the town´s parade that day. He had already put balloons on his car... And so we waited. Refusing to succomb to boredom we opened a bottle of wine and prepared a fresh lunch of avacado and cucumber. We played with the local kids and tried our hands at chess. Finally a local offered to take us in his car on the 6 hour journey. And take us he did...100 kms an hour on winding roads above the clouds with the peaks of the Alps at eye level, listening to regaton (duh de dah duh de dah duh) the entire way as our bodies crashed into eachother (no seat belts). Finally getting us safe and sound to Cusco at 10pm (I was expected to arrive at 1).
Being with Pepe and Majsha was the real trip. Pepe speaks broken English and Majsha had to translate what I couldn´t understand. Most of the time I listened to their rapid fire Spanish conversations about ex-spouses and their kids, nodding my head in agreement. I had to constantly request that they speak slower. The learning continues...
As does the night. Time for my local veggie sandwhich and a glass of vino.
Enjoy these first days of spring. Winter is approaching Peru. Bolivia will be even colder.
I leave Wednesday, after Gracie´s birthday celebrations. We´re thinking of splurging on a 15 soles meal ($5) rather than our usual 5 soles.
Ciao mis amigos!
xo
em
Friday, April 24, 2009
Jugo especial
Today Gracie and I treated ourselves to the ´special´juice we´ve been noticing in the market. For 6 soles ($2) we were given 2 glasses each filled to the rim with delicious goodness. Freshly blended mango, bee pollen, banana, raw honey, apple, pineapple, freshly cut aloe vera, a molasses type liquid, 2 raw eggs and a half-pint of dark Cusco beer. Sounds and looks disgusting, but it tasted delicious with a strong malty flavour. We could feel our bodies instantly grow healthier! The juice lady added that it´s perfect for hangovers. We might be going back tomorrow after yet another big night out at Roots, the local Salsa night club. We´ve been taking lessons with the cusqueña boys and their tight white shirts. Fun.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Soy Cusqueña
This morning I reminded myself that I only have two more weeks to enjoy Cusco. The 3rd largest city is Peru feels more like a big town. Gracie and I no longer walk the streets in peace as we´re always bumping into friends, students, teachers, the same old street vendors trying to sell us massages (´special price bonita, maybe now, maybe later...´)
Cusco holds a special charm over me. The narrow, cobblestone streets are constantly packed with tourists, beggars, entreprenurs, all cramed in between 700 year old Inkan walls.
Gracie and I lucked out by being invited to live (and pay $200 for the month) in Taita House, an up and coming long-term stay hostel overlooking Cusco in the tranquil, bohemian neighbourhood of San Blass. Our days instantly became social as the hostel is inhabited by the owner, Nico and his father, Tony, a jubilant restuarant owner from Lima who takes pride in cooking delicious vegetarian dishes for us on a nightly basis. While we eat he also enjoys serenading us with romantic love songs whilst strumming Gracie´s mini guitar.
For 3 weeks now Gracie and I have introduced delicious routines to our lives. In the morning we head to Spanish school in hope of cramming more words into our tired brains. After it´s off to the market for freshly blended juice and a chat with our favourite vendor. Back home for a siesta, homework and a stretch in the sun before meeting up with our favourite guys (all from Peru and Taita hostel, good friends who´ve invited us into their comfy world). We prefer to eat lunch at Lila´s in the San Blass market. $1 for a vegetarian feast of homemade soup, a whopping portion of curried beans, lentils, rice, fried banana (it changes every day), homemade yoghurt and a chocolate banana cake for desert. Yum. Her tiny stand is always packed, so we usually end up dining on the stairs outside, next to the women selling coca leaves and mending dresses.
In the afternoon we head to Aldea Yanapay for four hours of chaos! Aldea was an amazingly exhausting, albeit enjoyable experience. I had to prepare lessons daily for my group of 5-6 year olds. I usually had 8 in my art class (on a good day), and together we made animal masks, musical instruments (a great day!), painted easter eggs, and generally try to prevent the killing of eachother! The language barrier was a real thrill, as were the runny noses, face punches, foot stomping, paint brush throwing, insult spewing moments. At the end of the day the warm hugs, and cheek kisses made it entirely worth it. These kids come from poor homes with little education, and yet they were all smiles, all love (on a good day...). My favourite moment was this past friday. I had spent all week teaching my group of 10 year olds about the different continents. Each child had to remember one continent, 3 countries and 2 interesting facts. Easy right? Nothing was sinking into their brains. They´d shout that Thailand was in Antarctica and that penguins live in Africa. Finally on Friday, the day of the big performance, costumes and audience in tow, they remembered! They all bloody remembered! I was so proud! That was a good day.
Now that I am Aldea-free, I have an entire week to continue with my spanish studies while soaking up all that I can of Cusco. Over Easter we hosted Semana Santa. A week long of fesitivities including the procession of the virgen. This city tripled in size! And the sweets! What a celebration! People here love their desserts, well, actually, they seem to really love food period.
Good thing Gracie and I feel the same way.
Our strict rule is to try something new every day. We´ve done well so far.
Here´s a sample...
1. Rocoto Relleno - spicy peppers stuffed with carrots and deepfried in a thick batter. Sold on the streets for .75 and served with 2 mini baked potatoes.
2. Baked plantains and boiled quail eggs bought from wheelbarrows in the street.
3. Chicha, a local wine made from maize. It´s quite sour and not my favourite, but the locals love it and say it´s good for you!
4. Chicha morada, a juice made from purple corn, boiled with pineapple juice and sugar. We also sampled a pudding made from chica morada with a molases texture. Really thick and creamy and rich purple in colour.
5. Piccarones. Sweet potato batter deep fried into thin donuts and served drizzled with honey. My favourite! You can get 4 whole ones for $1!
6. Picante salsa with fresh cilantro, parsely, capsicums. Served with EVERYTHING! Super exciting flavours that burn your mouth and leave you wanting more.
7. Potatoes, native to Peru! Over 200 species with an array of colours and flavours. I have never eaten a sweeter potatoe until Cusco. It´s popular to eat them on their own or with salsa.
8. Maca. A root vegetable similar to turnip. It´s usually fried and can be bought from street vendors on cold nights.
9. Fruit, Vegetables and Honey! ALL organic, all fresh, all huge and beautiful in portion, all cheap, all from the Amazon! Avacadoes for 10 cents, honey for .50. I have never eaten so well. Vegetarian mostly too! The meat here is a bit dodgy as it´s usually kept at room temperature in the markets for hours on end. However, we have sort of promised ourselves that we´ll try the national fave Cuy (guinea pig). Served whole; head, arms, nails and all. I´ll let you know how that goes..
10. 100% Andean Chocolate. We tried chocolate balls made with Pisco, the local brandy-esque liquor made from Peruvian grapes. It´s normally served as a Pisco Sour with a mixture of lime juice and egg whites. Frothy. The perfect mix of sweet and sour. Goood!!!!
11. Ceviche. Fresh fish marinated in lime juice and served ´raw´. It´s been nearly a month since I´ve last had this dish, and I´m really looking forward to eating more on the northern coast.
As you can guess, I´m enthusiastic about Peru. The other night we were invited to the opening of Kusikay. An entirely Peruvian production of dance, circus acts, song, slapstick comedy. The founder, also playing the clown, became emotional at the end of the night, pouring his heart out for his love of Peru. The most poignant moment for me, was in the middle of the show when two groups of dancers came on stage carrying their different idols. On the left the serious, mournful with their virgen in white. On the right, the colourful, playful natives carrying their simple Inkan mummy. The mixture of these rich cultures has created a bounty of soulful music, cuisine, textiles, art and a people with warm smiles and open arms. I love Peru. Talk about love at first sight. Even a severe bought of stomach illness at the start of my time here wasn´t enough to turn me away!
Next week MachuPiccu and more adventures in the Sacred Valley. There´s a lot of magic to be had!
Until then..
Emily
Cusco holds a special charm over me. The narrow, cobblestone streets are constantly packed with tourists, beggars, entreprenurs, all cramed in between 700 year old Inkan walls.
Gracie and I lucked out by being invited to live (and pay $200 for the month) in Taita House, an up and coming long-term stay hostel overlooking Cusco in the tranquil, bohemian neighbourhood of San Blass. Our days instantly became social as the hostel is inhabited by the owner, Nico and his father, Tony, a jubilant restuarant owner from Lima who takes pride in cooking delicious vegetarian dishes for us on a nightly basis. While we eat he also enjoys serenading us with romantic love songs whilst strumming Gracie´s mini guitar.
For 3 weeks now Gracie and I have introduced delicious routines to our lives. In the morning we head to Spanish school in hope of cramming more words into our tired brains. After it´s off to the market for freshly blended juice and a chat with our favourite vendor. Back home for a siesta, homework and a stretch in the sun before meeting up with our favourite guys (all from Peru and Taita hostel, good friends who´ve invited us into their comfy world). We prefer to eat lunch at Lila´s in the San Blass market. $1 for a vegetarian feast of homemade soup, a whopping portion of curried beans, lentils, rice, fried banana (it changes every day), homemade yoghurt and a chocolate banana cake for desert. Yum. Her tiny stand is always packed, so we usually end up dining on the stairs outside, next to the women selling coca leaves and mending dresses.
In the afternoon we head to Aldea Yanapay for four hours of chaos! Aldea was an amazingly exhausting, albeit enjoyable experience. I had to prepare lessons daily for my group of 5-6 year olds. I usually had 8 in my art class (on a good day), and together we made animal masks, musical instruments (a great day!), painted easter eggs, and generally try to prevent the killing of eachother! The language barrier was a real thrill, as were the runny noses, face punches, foot stomping, paint brush throwing, insult spewing moments. At the end of the day the warm hugs, and cheek kisses made it entirely worth it. These kids come from poor homes with little education, and yet they were all smiles, all love (on a good day...). My favourite moment was this past friday. I had spent all week teaching my group of 10 year olds about the different continents. Each child had to remember one continent, 3 countries and 2 interesting facts. Easy right? Nothing was sinking into their brains. They´d shout that Thailand was in Antarctica and that penguins live in Africa. Finally on Friday, the day of the big performance, costumes and audience in tow, they remembered! They all bloody remembered! I was so proud! That was a good day.
Now that I am Aldea-free, I have an entire week to continue with my spanish studies while soaking up all that I can of Cusco. Over Easter we hosted Semana Santa. A week long of fesitivities including the procession of the virgen. This city tripled in size! And the sweets! What a celebration! People here love their desserts, well, actually, they seem to really love food period.
Good thing Gracie and I feel the same way.
Our strict rule is to try something new every day. We´ve done well so far.
Here´s a sample...
1. Rocoto Relleno - spicy peppers stuffed with carrots and deepfried in a thick batter. Sold on the streets for .75 and served with 2 mini baked potatoes.
2. Baked plantains and boiled quail eggs bought from wheelbarrows in the street.
3. Chicha, a local wine made from maize. It´s quite sour and not my favourite, but the locals love it and say it´s good for you!
4. Chicha morada, a juice made from purple corn, boiled with pineapple juice and sugar. We also sampled a pudding made from chica morada with a molases texture. Really thick and creamy and rich purple in colour.
5. Piccarones. Sweet potato batter deep fried into thin donuts and served drizzled with honey. My favourite! You can get 4 whole ones for $1!
6. Picante salsa with fresh cilantro, parsely, capsicums. Served with EVERYTHING! Super exciting flavours that burn your mouth and leave you wanting more.
7. Potatoes, native to Peru! Over 200 species with an array of colours and flavours. I have never eaten a sweeter potatoe until Cusco. It´s popular to eat them on their own or with salsa.
8. Maca. A root vegetable similar to turnip. It´s usually fried and can be bought from street vendors on cold nights.
9. Fruit, Vegetables and Honey! ALL organic, all fresh, all huge and beautiful in portion, all cheap, all from the Amazon! Avacadoes for 10 cents, honey for .50. I have never eaten so well. Vegetarian mostly too! The meat here is a bit dodgy as it´s usually kept at room temperature in the markets for hours on end. However, we have sort of promised ourselves that we´ll try the national fave Cuy (guinea pig). Served whole; head, arms, nails and all. I´ll let you know how that goes..
10. 100% Andean Chocolate. We tried chocolate balls made with Pisco, the local brandy-esque liquor made from Peruvian grapes. It´s normally served as a Pisco Sour with a mixture of lime juice and egg whites. Frothy. The perfect mix of sweet and sour. Goood!!!!
11. Ceviche. Fresh fish marinated in lime juice and served ´raw´. It´s been nearly a month since I´ve last had this dish, and I´m really looking forward to eating more on the northern coast.
As you can guess, I´m enthusiastic about Peru. The other night we were invited to the opening of Kusikay. An entirely Peruvian production of dance, circus acts, song, slapstick comedy. The founder, also playing the clown, became emotional at the end of the night, pouring his heart out for his love of Peru. The most poignant moment for me, was in the middle of the show when two groups of dancers came on stage carrying their different idols. On the left the serious, mournful with their virgen in white. On the right, the colourful, playful natives carrying their simple Inkan mummy. The mixture of these rich cultures has created a bounty of soulful music, cuisine, textiles, art and a people with warm smiles and open arms. I love Peru. Talk about love at first sight. Even a severe bought of stomach illness at the start of my time here wasn´t enough to turn me away!
Next week MachuPiccu and more adventures in the Sacred Valley. There´s a lot of magic to be had!
Until then..
Emily
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